Celebrating Imbolc, Brigid, and her Plants

 


Imbolc

In this moon cycle, starting Saturday January 21, we’ll be coming to the cross-quarter day of Imbolc, half way between the winter solstice and the spring equinox. I welcome Imbolc with relief to have made it through the darkest part of the winter, and Imbolc begins a time of quickening, planting intentions for this year's growing cycle. If you’ve been in winter’s hibernation cave, Imbolc signals that it’s time to get up for a big stretch and poke your head out into the world, feeling the sun on your face again.

 


Imbolc is the time of the goddess Brigid, later absorbed into Christianity as St. Brigid and so important to the identity of Ireland, that she is the Patron Saint of the country alongside St. Patrick, thereby becoming a sort of Great Celtic Mother. There is a wealth of lore and information on Brigid and here we’ll look primarily at her connection with specific plants. Note that Brigid has many name variations such as, Brigit, Brig, Brighid, and Bride.


 

Brigid is a goddess of fire and water. It’s noteworthy that Imbolc falls at the celebration of Iemanja, Queen of the Sea, another elemental powerful mother figure with a great capacity for healing and consolation. At this turn of the seasonal wheel, the element of water clears winter’s stagnancy, opening the path for revitalization and new beginnings. Fire represents the elimination of impediments to start again, the life force in all living beings, and the warm rays of the sun.

 

The timing of Imbolc is parallel to other ancient celebrations like the Aztec new year, Chinese new year, Roman Lupercalia, and the sacred day was adapted into the Christian calendar as Candlemas. Pagan Imbolc traditions included torchlit processions on fields to ensure an abundant growing season ahead.

 


Celtic pagans lit a sacred fire in Brigid’s honor. Romans had a torchlit procession honoring Juno Februata/Regina that would be enveloped into Christian ceremonies by the 7th century CE. Candlemas ceremonies in the 11th centurry CE included lighting and blessing of candles, a holdover of recognizing the connection to fire at this time of year.

 

According to folklore, Brigid was descended from the Tuatha Dé Danann, the daughter of the Dagda and wife of Bres, with whom she had a son named Ruadán. The Tuatha Dé Danann are part of Ireland’s mythic past, an ancient tribe of gods, Ireland’s first inhabitants, that over time became interlaced with the many-storied origins of the fae, sidhe, or faery folk. Brigid’s reach into the collective memory is very long, and she is correlated with the Greek goddess Athena and the Roman goddess Minerva.

 


Brigid as a Triple Goddess, portrayed as three sisters, or sometimes three mothers, is a very old archetype that illustrates the fluidity of time. Sometimes the Triple Goddess archetype is Maiden-Mother-Crone and when it is three sisters or mothers, the same idea applies, cycles beget cycles, what is old is born again to the next cycle. Brigid’s counterparts as the Triple Goddess are also called Brigid, unlike other Triple Goddesses. Brigid in her triplicity rules poetry, smithcraft, and healing.

 



She is a goddess of inspiration, herbal healing, midwifery and fertility, protection of mothers and children, augury and divination. Her symbols include: fire, flames, anvils and blacksmith tools, hearths, home, water, cauldrons, springs, wells, grain, Brigid wheels, white cows (especially those with red ears), wolves, snakes, swans, hibernating animals (groundhog, bear, badger), vultures, and ravens, the first annual bird to nest in Scottish Highlands in February.

The Coming of Bríde by John Duncan, 1917.

 

Imbolc, means “in the belly” and refers to the breeding season of livestock, especially ewes. As well as being a wielder of regenerative power in bringing forth the spring, Brigid is a guardian of mothers, human and animal. Dairy products, milk, and the color white are connected with Brigid and used for Imbolc celebrations and offerings. That cattle and livestock would make noise to warn of danger, shows Brigid’s close relationship of protection with the animal realm.

 

Brigid’s church at Kildare was built in an oak grove sacred to the Druids, and Brigid is aligned with oak’s associations of strength, vitality, navigating liminal spaces and portals. Irish duir has linguistic roots to “door,” leadership, as in Old Irish law that held the oak as the primary tree. Oak is linked to an even older Celtic deity, the Dagda, the good god, often symbolized as a stag with large antlers and a cauldron of plenty. Dagda is able to provide for the earthly needs of the people because he follows the natural law of living in harmony with nature, thus the imagery of abundance. The stag symbolism goes back to the Sumerian god Enki and a worship of stags and stag gods is prevalent across early Celtic Europe, moving more into a green man stag artistic expression in Celtic Ireland and Britain.

The Gundestrup cauldron, La Tène Celtic Art, c.100 BCE

 

As Dagda’s daughter, Brigid is a female counterpart of much of the same energy, and perhaps preserves memories of the oldest Celtic traditions from what is now Eastern Europe within the living Celtic traditions of Ireland. It is her strength and magic that brings each growing season alive, abiding by the natural order’s cycles, and with oak, she shares imagery of the abundant cauldron, Brigid as the divine feminine generative force that directs earthly manifestation, including the weather.



Imbolc has a long tradition of predicting the weather that would be crucial for prosperous husbandry. If the weather at Imbolc was poor, the Old Woman of Winter, the Cailleach, wouldn’t be able to gather lots of firewood to continue to keep warm in the cold weather, so it was a positive omen for good weather ahead. These weather divination practices continued in the Christian celebration of Candlemas and today in Groundhog Day.

“If Candlemas day be fair and bright, Winter will have another flight.
 If Candlemas day be shower and rain, Winter is gone and will not come again.”


 

At Imbolc, Brigid carries a white willow wand with an acorn tip that controls the weather. She defeats the Cailleach, the Old Woman of Winter. Willow has a strong life force and can regenerate itself from a twig in the soil, bringing the energy of vitality, and the speedy growth of spring. As emerging from the winter cave, moving from a space of dream time to directed action, can feel uncomfortable, willow eases the discomfort of moving through change, mourning loss, welcoming the new, and accepting the flow of life. Additionally, willow comforts by relieving physical pain. Like willow, Brigid is expert in liminal spaces, and the need for certain boundaries.


 

Willow is linked with feminine energy and the lunar cycle, and is a shapeshifter of consciousness and emotions. Its branches are flexible, expressing movement and change rather than resistance. It’s a tree of enchantment and dreaming, enhancing the confidence to follow one’s intuition, inspiring leaps of imagination, easily flowing with Brigid’s creative inspiration. Trees like willow or hawthorn, often growing near springs and water, would be decorated with clooties, strips of cloth infused with prayer or intention, sometimes written, and tied to the tree branches as an offering. Clootie offerings can be made especially on any the cross quarter days (Imbolc, Beltane, Lughnasa, Samhain) and are thought to be an evolution of ancient Celtic votive offerings made in wells and water sources for healing and to honor the nature spirits.





Hawthorn trees were another tree that can be associated with Brigid through the traditions of offerings at the water. Hawthorn tends the fires of the circulatory system as a cardiac tonic and blood pressure regulator. Hawthorn helps to reorient to having the heart as inner compass, in line with the Chinese concept of shen, the spirit that integrates western concepts of mind, emotion, and spirit residing in the heart.




When shen is in balance, we feel connected to our authentic self, our sense of power, vitality, joy. For shen to thrive, balance and boundaries must be honored, following the natural law that Brigid follows to bring forth the spring’s fiery spark of life.  As a valuable winter medicine, hawthorn is a delicious plant to connect with at Imbolc, either the berries for circulation, nourishing the quickening movement that will happen from late winter to spring, or the flowers, to connect with lust for life in its floral alluring aspect, also aiding flow of connection in relationships. I connect with hawthorn berry as a modulator of fire and water in a watery season, so it’s intuitively a match for Brigid’s fire and water elemental action.


 

Brigid’s wand is sometimes said to be made of birch. In Celtic traditions, birch is more often associated with Beltane spring and autumn Samhain celebrations. This association with Brigid’s wand as birch makes a lot of sense as birch is helpful in clearing out stagnant energies, cleansing to release in preparation for coming change. Birch is a tree of light, clarifying, purifying, helping us to move toward goals with gentle persistence, aligning us with inner authority, self discipline, clarification of motivation and purpose. For Imbolc, fallen birch bark can make a wonderful ritual offering. Write on it, or infuse it with your intention, and offer it to fire, water, bury it in the earth, or gift it to a tree.



 

Blackberry is sacred to Brigid, and the leaves and berries are used to attract prosperity and healing. Blackberry is said to be a goddess plant, belonging to the planetary sphere of Venus. It nourishes with a high mineral content, acts as a tonic for reproductive organs, and its astringency tones tissues. This rose family plant protects small animals in its bushes and thickets, creating boundaries with thorns. It's known for its strong life force, able to flower and berry at the same time. Blackberry represents the pleasure of sweet fruits, the satisfaction of nourishment, the importance of living in harmony with nature to have access to nutrient dense fruits and leaves.

 



For all its sweetness, blackberry has tenacity and stamina, is both flexible and tough. As a vine, it’s a mobile plant, able to move across the landscape, a connector and networker of land and plants. Like blackberry’s sheltering abundance, Brigid is a protector of women, mothers, children, and animals, a protector of life force, generously offering her strength to support all the living things of spring, and the force of spring itself. Blackberry as an ogham also speaks to the circular patterns of life and the lessons to be learned. If it's not learned this time round, vine returns to earth and sprouts up in a new spot with a renewed chance to learn and dance this spiral life. The Catholic tradition associates Brigid with the wider category of vine.



 

A few other plants are commonly associated with Brigid: heather, gooseberry, hazel, and apples. Heather is associated with earth goddesses like Brigid, Isis, Aphrodite, Venus, Gaea, good luck, protection of women, open portals to the fairy world, and bees. Gooseberry was used in relation to menstrual cycles to slow bleeding and as a tonic, and with Brigid, childbirth and women’s cycles. Hazel is a plant spirit energy that’s open to connection, and is sacred to poets and seekers. In the battle of Moytura in which Brigid’s son Ruada was killed, and Brigid invented a whistling sound to communicate in the air, hazel helped communication between the realms of life and death. Brigid tended an apple orchard in the Celtic Otherworld, thus tending the wisdom, healing, magic of apples. With all these plant connections, it’s not surprising that bees, bringing healing nectar to the earth, are sacred to Brigid.



There are other, likely more modern, associations of plants with Brigid, like ginger, angelica, basil, myrrh, celandine, and dandelion. For ritual purpose and ease of sourcing, ginger is my favorite of these, revitalizing and stimulating the fire within. Once one connects with the archetype of Brigid, all growth of plants and flowers could be in her domain. Whichever plant is chosen for focus, where Brigid goes, flowers grow where she steps, marking a fertile path forward.



 

How was Imbolc celebrated?


Februa, Latin for February, was the Roman month to clean. Cleaning clears winter’s stagnant energies and makes space for a new season. Februalia was a month-long period of purification, in which atonements, sacrifices, and offerings were made. Over time the Februalia festival became associated with Vesta as keeper of the sacred fire. Celts would also completely clear any remaining Yuletide decorative greens, offering them to the Brigid’s Imbolc fires, and it was a time to clean the house and ready the fields and farms. It’s easy to see how clearing space for new growth and feeding the fire with what is no longer needed would be a natural inclination at this turn of the seasonal wheel. The Celtic ritual fires at Imbolc marked the return of the sun, kindling clarity, warmth, and abundance in the home.




In Medieval times, it was thought Brigid would visit the homes of the most worthy, blessing them for the year ahead, so people left clothing, food or tokens on their doorsteps for Brigid. Ashes would be allowed to burn out to check for the mark of Brigid’s visit. Sometimes a bed was made next to the fire for Brigid to take some rest. In some areas across Ireland and Scotland, women played a very important part in the festivities:



They would make a doll figure from rushes known as a ‘Brideog’, dress it in white and with flowers, and carry it in a procession while singing hymns and poems in honour of Bridget. At every home they passed, they would receive more pieces of cloth or small bits of food for the Brideog. Once the procession was finished, they would place the Brideog in a seat of honour and have a feast with all of the food, before placing it in a bed for the night while they began celebrations.”


How to celebrate Imbolc today

 
Imbolc was a time to clean and purify, a time for offerings, and a time for Dianic and other initiations. Now Imbolc can be a time for a reset of your choice, releasing on the material realm or letting go of habits, behaviors, thoughts. Imbolc season is time for an inner journey of inspiration, when creative work is energized. Make time for laughter, sleep, appreciating sweetness, quieting the mind and spirit.




  • Purify and cleanse, refresh and renew.

  • Clean the house, get rid of what’s ready to go,

  • Clean the body with salt- earth.

  • Clear thoughts with incense smudge- air.

  • Move emotions with water.

  • Ignite spirit with fire, intention, crystals.

  • Consider what you are dedicated to and how to rededicate yourself.

  • Burn lavender or rosemary as incense.

  • Clean your crystals.

  • Bless yourself. Bless.

  • Set an intention for the next growing season, how do you want to grow in the sun this spring and summer?

  • Brigid’s number is 19, so consider continuing a ritual for 19 days, like 19 days of burning a candle lit with your intention setting.

  • Take a candle-lit salt bath.

  • Brigid’s colors: white for purity, sacred milk, snowy landscape; red for fire, sun, and life force; blue for Brigid’s blue mantle in the Christian tradition; and green for her sometimes green mantle, representing her faery connection and the land of Ireland.

  • Make an offering for Brigid of early greens and flowers, like snowdrops.

  • Make an offering at the water- a leaf or other object of nature infused with intention and gratitude.

  • Make an offering to the fire (carefully!) or light a candle in Brigid’s honor.

  • Use birch bark (never pull from the tree- use only what has already been freely given on the ground) to make an offering or intention.

  • Eat and cook with blackberries.

  • Offer Brigid bread and cheese, or another food offering.

  • Make a symbolic bed for Brigid in your home (could be any size- it’s symbolic).

  • Make a Brigid cross or doll.



In honoring Brigid, there is a remarkably long history of acknowledging the rhythm of the seasons, feeding the fire of purification and life force, embracing the waters of life and of healing. Following these ancient footsteps, it’s possible to find comfort in all the changes and uncertainties. I hope that you take what is useful to you from this exploration of Imbolc, Brigid and her herbs and rituals, and honor whatever your needs are for clearing and reinvigoration. Each turn of the seasonal wheel invites us to release the spent and invite in the good, celebrating this dance of returning to earth again and again, turning, and returning. Wishing you inspired Imbolc blessings!


 

Here are a few links for more information on Imbolc crafts like Brigid’s crosses, dolls and a coloring page to download.



Brigid Links

 



Brigid Chants from Selena Fox:


Brigid Sun Fire

Brigid Fire of the Sun, Rise in me,

Enliven me, Enlighten me!


Brigid Sun

Brigid Sun Shining Bright,

Bless us with Your Sacred Light!


Brigid Fire

Brigid Fire, Come, Inspire!


Brigid Sacred Flame 

Lady of the Sacred Flame,

Bless Us as we call Your Name: Brigid, Brigid.


Brigid Sacred Spring

Lady of the Sacred Spring,

Heal Us as your Name We sing: Brigid, Brigid.

*


***

Stuffed Portobellos

History

Portobello mushrooms are mature Agaricus bisporus fungi. Their young form is the common white button mushroom which matures into the cremini mushroom. Native to the grasslands of Asia, Europe, and North America, portobellos were first grown commercially in the early 18th century. Due to growing  inconsistencies, there was not much incentive to propogate them until 1893 when developments in horse manure sterilization, by the Paris-based Pasteur Foundation, created a more consistent factor in the growing process, and coined the French term for the portobello, champignon de Paris or Paris mushroom. This stability factor was crucial in a growing process that naturally has many fluctuating factors. All Agaricus bisporus mushrooms were all gray until a mutation created white mushrooms in 1925 in Pennsylvania, and most white mushrooms available today descend from this one mutation. 


White mushrooms and white bread rode together into popular American cuisine with their novelty factor as accessible luxuries, establishing their place in everyday kitchens across the country. Growing up in 1980s New England, getting an iceberg lettuce salad with raw mushrooms was a special treat. We’d have them occasionally but I associate them most with stuffed mushrooms for parties, not as much in day to day cooking. Of the three maturities, portobellos were especially unpopular on the general market at this time as they were considered ugly and unappealing. Eventually, portobellos became popular with chefs and home cooks and then, there was no stopping this Agaricus bisporus. Today, China far surpasses any other country’s production of Agaricus bisporus, followed by Japan, the United States, Poland, and the Netherlands. 

The umami flavor and toothsome texture made portobello mushroom burgers a popular trend for many years in the 1990s and 2000s. In the last two decades, mushrooms have been reconsidered as a sustainable, nutritious food source that has regularly put them on food trend lists considering both the environment and culinary creativity. Mushrooms, though available year round, are a winter food, and they are ideal for countering the cold, wet, stagnation of winter. Now I know why eating mushrooms in Ireland was such a delectable experience — they were the perfect culinary match for a cool, rainy climate. 


Nutrition and Energetics

Agaricus bisporus reduces pitta and kapha, and are sweet and cooling. They absorb fat in the blood, increasing their appeal to those concerned with cardiovascular health. They also absorb excess mucus in the respiratory tract, easing winter congestion. Their nutritional profile, high in protein, B vitamins, especially riboflavin (B2), pantothenic acid (B5), niacin (B3), phosphorus, and low in fat and calories made Agaricus bisporus appealing to both the health and waist-conscious.

It’s interesting that they are cooling in their energetics and aid adaptability to cool, wet climates. Agaricus bisporus increases production of white blood cells, signaling the hypothalmus to increase body temperature. With eating mushrooms, this happens subtly, not enough to feel feverish, but enough to help balance excess seasonal coolness. Agaricus bisporus are also immunity boosting in their antibiotic action. 

I wonder about Agaricus bisporus modulators of body temperature considering that besides their capacity to balance coolness, they also can remove excess heat due to high animal protein consumption. This action helps orient us to their purpose in the wider lens of ecosystems — to eat what is decaying, return those nutrients in a more available form back to the earth, facilitating the turn from life to death to life again. These digesting and distributing aspects are relevant to where we are in our relationship as humans to the planet. Will we abandon our models of infinitely expanding growth for ones that are more cyclical in nature, ones that are modeled by nature? Mushrooms have long been an area of research for supporting a positive adaptogenic response and taming the uncontrolled growth of cancers. Mushrooms, and Agaricus bisporus as the most common form of mushroom available, remain an exciting inspiration for chefs, for health enthusiasts,  and for scientific research, in reflecting on steps forward that can be delicious, sustainable, and balancing, a topic fertile for much reflection on how to step forward consciously, taking in the perspective of an interconnected network, an entire ecosystem. Could mushrooms even have the potential to help us shift from an individual to a collective mentality? Let’s eat more and find out. 

And that’s the thing, mushrooms can be so satisfying! This recipe has a lot more greens and aromatics than classic stuffed mushrooms (think cracker crumbs and lots of butter). Parsley, Petroselinum crispus, is a digestive aid, diuretic, warming, blood purifying, stimulates bowels, and freshens breath. Spinach, Spinach oleracea, supports the stomach, large intestine, liver, and reduces kapha. Garlic, Allium sativum, is pungent, warming, stimulating, antibacterial, antifungal, anticarcinogenic, antiparasitic, aids blood pressure, cholesterol levels, spleen pancreas, stomach, kidney, lungs, and promotes healthy gut flora. Onion, Allium cepa, is antioxidant, anticarcinogenic, antiviral, antibiotic, aids kidneys, healthy cholesterol levels, and increases appetite. Raw onion reduces kapha, while cooked onion reduces kapha and pitta. This recipe was created with flavor and winter adaptability in mind.

A Couple of Recipe Notes

  • Other mushroom varieties like shiitake could be used for all or some of the cremini mushrooms for even more immune-boosting nutrient density. 

  • Breadcrumbs or cracker crumbs can be substituted for the panko, and of those options, panko is the lightest. 

  • Vegan and Gluten Free options are included below.

  • The mushrooms can be prepped a day ahead, keeping the filling in an air tight container and the mushroom tops in the glass pans or a paper bag. 

One last thing before the recipe. 

I have a special bond with portobellos because stuffed portobellos were the first menu item I was allowed to make independently in my first professional cooking job as a teenager. Preparing 30 cases of portobellos a day bled into my dreams, and waking and dreaming, I made these mushrooms until I could literally and figuratively make them in my sleep. Not only did I make some kick ass stuffed mushrooms, but from this experience I learned about kitchen process, mise en place, and listening to your ingredients through sensory observation, physical touch, and intuition. For this initiation process, I will always have a unique and adoring spot in my heart for portobellos. I hope you enjoy this recipe!

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil, optional= more for drizzling on top

6 huge or 8 large portobellos

2 medium onions

1 medium head, about 10 cloves Garlic

2 cups cremini mushrooms

1 large bunch parsley

8 cups spinach (another green like kale or collards could be used here, though spinach has a more delicate flavor and texture)

2 cups panko (For GF option see below*)

1 1/2 cups grated mix parmesan and romano cheese (For Vegan option see below**)

Optional: 1/2 cup extra cheese for topping

2 tablespoons dried basil 

1 tablespoon dried oregano

a sprinkle sea salt, more to taste

1/2 tsp  black pepper, more to taste

Procedure

  1. Preheat oven to 350F.

  2. Separate the portobello tops and stems. 

  3. Trim bottoms of stems and anything darker brown or slimy. Add these to the cremini mushrooms. 

  4. Clean portobello tops, washing or wiping with a damp cloth.

  5. Drizzle 1 T olive oil in 2- 8x8 glass baking dishes. Add the portobellos to the oiled baking dishes.

  6. Trim cremini stems. Wash all creminis and portobello stems. 

  7. Prep onions, garlic, spinach, and parsley for the food processor: 

  8. Peel onions, cutting each one into half, then into 4-6 pieces. Set aside. 

  9. Peel garlic. Set aside. 

  10. Trim parsley stems, rough chop bunch with 4 cuts. Wash parsley in a salad spinner. Set aside.

  11. Trim spinach ends. Wash well, always wash spinach at least twice if not three times because it holds the dirt well. Set aside. 

  12. Pulse creminis, portobello stems, onions, garlic, parsley, and spinach in the food processor in stages, combining all that’s been processed in a large bowl.

  13. Add salt, pepper, cheese, panko, basil, and oregano. Mix well.

  14. Divide the mixture between the portobellos, generously topping each and pressing down slightly to firm the topping on the portobellos. Any extra topping mix can be placed in the pans next to the mushroom tops.

  15. Optional: top with extra cheese and or some olive oil.

16. Bake one hour at 350F.

17. Turn down the oven to  275F, and bake for another 30 minutes. 


Serving suggestions:

Eat them as they are, alongside a salad, or on top of pasta. 

Here is a stuffed mushroom on top of arugula, fusilli, and topped with homemade tomato sauce. 

*Gluten Free Option:

Use 1 1/2 cups ground flax seed and 1/2 cup ground nut/seed.

**Vegan Option:

For the cheese, sub 1 cup ground nuts or seeds like sunflower, cashew, walnut, or almond with 1/2 cup nutritional yeast.

Massaman Curry

There’s something about massaman curry that hits just the right spot for so many people. It won first place in CNN’s The Worlds 50 Best Foods in 2011 and 2017. That’s some strong staying power for this palate pleaser that’s been around for two centuries or more. Massaman curry is an example of successful fusion food at its best, combining flavors from Persian, Malaysian and Indian cuisine, like cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, cumin, bay leaves, nutmeg, mace, with traditional Thai flavors like, chile peppers, coriander, lemongrass, galangal, white pepper, shrimp paste, shallots, garlic, and ginger. Like all fusion recipes, there are countless variations, so not all massaman curries will have every single one of these ingredients. 

The word Massaman comes from the Persian, Mosalman, meaning muslim. In the 19th century, the curry was sometimes called Mussulman curry. Some say this curry originated in 17th century central Thailand (then Siam) at the court of Ayutthaya, through the Persian merchant Sheik Ahmad Qomi.  One recipe origin story says massaman curry came directly from Persian traders to the court at Ayutthaya in the 17th century during the Ayutthaya period. Another possibility is that the recipe came about slightly later in the 18th century Thonburi period in Southern Thailand’s Muslim communities. There was the largest concentration of Muslims in Thailand in this area, and the recipe could have easily developed organically among those observing Muslim culinary rules while cooking with Thai ingredients. No matter the origin, this rich and flavorful curry was usually reserved for special occasions and religious ceremonies.

It was beloved in earlier days too, and is mentioned in the late 18th century poem,  Kap He Chom Khrueang Khao Wan, by King Rama II, then Prince Itsarasunthon of Siam:

“Massaman, a curry made by 

my beloved, is fragrant of 

cumin and strong spices.

Any man who has swallowed

the curry is bound to long for 

her.”


Besides the impressive list of spices, massaman usually includes chicken, meat, or tofu, potatoes, onions, and peanuts. The first known recipe for massaman curry dates from 1889, called “Chicken Matsaman with bitter orange juice,” by Lady Plean Passakornrawong. In the traditional process, the curry paste is fried with coconut milk first before other ingredients are added, and sometimes, the meat is cooked in fat first. I chose to cook the tofu in oil first to remove more water from the tofu and make it more toothsome. Some versions add oranges, orange juice, pineapple juice, or another citrus juice. I wanted to taste the spices distinctly so I chose not to add a strong sour-sweet element with added fruit juice. Well-cooked tofu emphasizes the subtle sour flavor of fermentation of the tofu itself, and I was satisfied with that amount of sour. If using animal protein, the curry may benefit from the cutting and lifting aspect of added citrus. 

A lot of modern massaman curries dominate with sweetness, and with sweet as the primary flavor, there’s more leeway to add some sour, but I find most massamun curries are too sweet and hide the complexity of spices. To strip away the distorting power of sugar, I relied on the sweetness of ingredients themselves in onion, peanut, tofu, squash, and potato. I think this is a better way to learn about the interaction of spices on the palate. Every chef has a reference point for the painting equivalent of one brush stroke too many. I can still see mine clearly, a rainbow curry, pretty, but entirely unappealing having pushed the flavor pendulum too far: too sweet, too sour, too spicy. If you really want to add some coconut sugar or maple syrup to make this recipe more pleasurable, feel free to edit, but I encourage you to try it with no additional sweeteners. 

Massaman curry is a satisfying meal, good for drying vata season with its rich oils. Besides the oil from the coconut milk, I used coconut and sesame oils. For moving into winter’s kapha season, the curry can be made with less oil if you are kapha dominant, or the same amount of fat for vata and pitta. For all, the grounding vegetables and peanuts mixed with warming digestive spices make it great for cold nights. One reason massaman curry has such wide appeal is that it is very flavorful and satisfying without a lot of spicy heat. That said, kapha types may add cayenne or other chile pepper heat to add some circulatory fire to the density of the dish. 

Some Recipe Notes:

  • I made this in the oven to cook the vegetables faster, but it can be done in a large heavy pot, like a large cast-iron pot.

  • Allowing the curry to cook at the end concentrates the sauce and lets spices meld.

  • Note that because the size of the vegetables varies, and terms like medium and large are subjective, I’ve given volume amounts in the ingredient list to make shopping estimates easier.

  • I did use the short cut of working with pre-made Thai red curry paste. Massaman curry is considered a yellow curry, so this is a departure from the traditional, but practical for most.

  • It is a large volume, so consider that you will feed lots of people or eat this for a couple of nights still with some to freeze. If the amount feels daunting, half the recipe.


Nourishing Root’s

Massaman Curry Recipe


Ingredients:

1/3 cup coconut oil

2 packages (2 pounds) extra firm tofu, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 cups yellow onions (about 3 very large onions), cut into 1/2 inch angled quarter-moons (cut onion in half through diameter, cut each half in half again lengthwise, then make angled 1/2 inch cuts)*

3 cups carrots, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, then into 1/2 inch angled pieces

1 medium butternut squash, about 5-6 cups, cut into 1-inch dice

1 1/2 cup potatoes cubed (I used local potatoes similar to yukon gold, and any type or size of potato could be used)

1/4 cup sesame oil

1/2 cup tamari

4 oz jar Thai red curry paste

1/2 cup water

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon dried ground ginger

2 teaspoons ground cumin seed

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 cup organic crunchy peanut butter

1 C salted, roasted peanuts

2 13.5-oz cans coconut milk 

1 large bunch lacinato kale, rough chopped into large bite size pieces


*I like this style of cut for dishes where there are long cooking large cut vegetables like carrots and potatoes, when you don’t want the onion to meld into the sauce. Large dice would also be fine, but the shape of the angled quarter moons holds up better to high heat and tends to be sweeter, having released less onion juice in the cutting than diced onions.

For serving:

cooked rice of choice, I used 3 parts brown basmati mixed with 1 part wild rice blend.

Serves:

8-12 large portions, makes about 4 quarts (16 cups). 

Procedure:

1. Preheat oven to 400F.


2. In a large roasting pan, add coconut oil. tofu, and onion. 


3. Bake for 30 minutes. Prep other ingredients while tofu and onion cook. 

4.  At the end of 30 minutes, remove pan from oven, and increase oven temperature to 425F. 


5.  Add cut carrots, squash, potatoes, plus sesame oil, tamari, red curry paste, and water. Cook for 30 minutes.  



6. Remove pan from oven, and reduce heat to 350F.


7. Add the spices, peanut butter, peanuts, coconut milk, and kale. Mix well. 


8. Return pan to the oven and bake another 30 minutes.

9. Remove pan from the oven and stir. Adjust salt (or tamari) and spices to taste. 

10. Serve over rice, grain, or cooked greens. 

Enjoy!





















Em's Pepper Tomato Sauce

While visiting my family, we were gifted a big bag of green peppers. Green peppers are often not a favorite because of their bitterness, but they shine in long simmering dishes in which their bright flavor and bitterness work together to deepen the dish’s flavor profile, resulting in a complex taste with bitter, sweet, and fresh tones. The first dinner I made for my family at age ten featured an earlier version of this pepper tomato sauce, with both green and red peppers. In that version I used sugar to counter the bitterness of the green pepper and deepen the tomato sweetness. Now, I have a better solution by slow-cooking the onions and peppers to bring out their natural sweetness. Those veggies, with the later addition of broccoli, parsley, and garlic, meant the sauce was almost two thirds veggies, then reduced to one third before adding tomatoes. The finished sauce is a deeply flavored, mellowed out nightshade symphony. Nightshade lovers rejoice! This is a sauce to be enjoyed at any time of the year. Can or put some in the freezer to enjoy in another season.

RECIPE:

Ingredients:

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

4 large onions chopped, about 4 cups

6 large green peppers, small diced, about 6 cups 

Optional another veggies (flexible volume, 1-4 cups):

I used 1 1/2 cups chopped broccoli

1 bunch parsley, chopped 

2 large heads garlic, minced, about 1/2 cup chopped 

2 - 28 oz cans crushed tomatoes 

2 - 6 oz cans tomato paste 

2 teaspoons sea salt, plus more to taste

Generous black pepper 

2 tablespoons oregano, or fresh to taste

2 tablespoons dried basil, or fresh to taste

Procedure:

  1. In a large Dutch oven add olive oil and onions. Start cooking the onions while cutting peppers. Add the peppers, stir well, and cook 1 hour, covered, on medium low heat.

  2. Add optional veggies, parsley, and garlic.

  3. Cook 20 minutes.

  4. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper, basil, and oregano.

  5. Simmer to heat through, then let sit at least 30 minutes to let the flavors meld. Adjust salt and herbs to taste.

  6. Keep the sauce on the stove till serving time, heating it up periodically to keep sauce in a good temperature range. It should feel uncomfortably hot to touch the entire time it is on the stovetop until it’s time for the final cool down before storing.

  7. Served over pasta with generous parmigiana, black pepper, and hot chile flakes, or your favorite toppings.

  8. Store refrigerated for one week or freeze for long term use.

Enjoy!